JP23 Amplifier Quick Troubleshooting
IN VERY RARE situations, the JP23 may protect, not produce sound, or have issues.
My name is Jacob Scott; I developed the JP D4S Amplifiers at Down4sound alongside my long-time friend and one of the top national amplifier technicians in the basshead world Shane Ekstrom. Together with some OG’s of the industry, we created the monsters you see today at Down4sound.
This article is general troubleshooting to get the amplifier working. I want you to have the best experience with the JP23 Amplifiers… SO READ and IMPLEMENT 🙂
Jp23 .5 ohm protection: YES, the JP23 does .05 ohm, but your electrical will need to be built up; that being said, I would recommend using at least 2 AGM OR LITHIUM, upgraded batteries seeing 13.2 to 14.4v range but stable, with 0 gauge wire, and if the budget allows a BIG 3 UPGRADE. High output alternators and more is all a plus.
The lower the impedance, the more UNLEASHED the power WILL BE.
SO, when wired at .5 ohm, if the amplifier will dynamically jump between impedances, the lower the impedance, and with DEEP BASS, your AMPERAGE and VOLTAGE DRAW WILL GO THROUGH THE ROOF ON DEMAND.
We use state-of-the-art protection chipsets so your amplifier doesn’t turn into a paperweight. BUT ignoring the issue will make your amplifier one. Imagine running as fast as you can for 30 minutes uncontrollably; you get pretty tired vs. a nice steady jog
GET THE ELECTRICAL UPGRADE MENTIONED! OH, get the .5 ohm WARRANTY TOO. You will be covered with the .5 ohm warranty one time. Then, reinstall your JP23 tune accordingly.
Upgrading the electrical will then allow the amplifier what it needs to give you the power you crave.
Can I use smaller gauge wire on the power and ground inputs?
NO, use 0 gauge wire, quality Tinned OFC, OFC, and CCA is OK. Using a smaller wire, you run the chance of the wire heating up. The wire heating up will cause the voltage to drop and throw your amplifier into protect. GREAT WIRE IS AVAILABLE ON DOWN4SOUND.
Amplifier randomly goes into protecting randomly when I first start up my car or a little after I start driving.
Check your grounds, solid metal points on vehicle and or frame; no rusted areas bare metal, please. also, check any connection or integration modules for issues, like a line out converter and or DSP.
Furthermore, be sure to ohm out your subwoofers with a quality multimeter, both installed, each subwoofer separately at the terminal. Also, visually check each subwoofer(s) for rips in spiders or leads; this will also throw the amplifier into protection.
The amplifier isn’t turning on at all.
- Check all the connections and fusing.
- Did you smell anything funny before it the amplifier stopped working?
- If you can’t find anything and have a warranty, you should get it fixed quickly by emailing customer service.
I hope this helps you; if you have any questions, send me an email.
This is basic knowledge for 90% of heads but this blog is great JS thanks
Right, but not knowing is the worst lol.. hopefully, this helps the masses
My slave amp kept going into protect as soon as the bass hit at full volume. Long story short check all your connections. My fuse in the holder going to that amp was loose enough to cause this issue. Since then I upgraded to the smd 4 spot fuse holder to get ready for the jp63 that’s supposed to come out. Not a single problem since
Hey ja you should put this with the amps as you send them the new guys need to know no small or garbage wire. Thanks